Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Roma: La vita quotidiana

So. Daily life in Rome. What's it all about? The biggest difference I've noticed in Rome is that life simply works at a different pace here than it does in the US. During orientation at JCU, they told us that in Italy, time is NOT money- and it's so true. There are city-wide, mandatory quiet hours from 1-4 p.m. (siesta, anyone?) and 11 p.m.-7 a.m. I've seen signs that say, "Closed for the holidays, 7/1/11 - 15/2/11" -note that they write the day first, then the month- which I would never expect to see in the States. How many small businesses could do that at home- just take off for a month? Just for fun? The walking pace is also much slower than I'm used to (at least using Madison as a frame of reference). Lauren and I have been attempting to master the Roman meander, but it seems to only really happen when we have a coppetta (little cup) of gelato in hand. Maybe that's another excuse to eat more gelato? As if we need one.....Blue Ice is quickly becoming my favorite place.


Thus far, I think my favorite flavor is stracciatella, basically the Italian version of chocolate chip ice cream. The cioccomenta will probably be Mom's- basically mint chocolate chip- and, as if I didn't get enough Nutella, the Nutella-flavored gelato is also fantastic. I also really enjoy the fruit flavors- I've had excellent limone (lemon), arancia (orange), and frutti di bosco (mixed berry). They taste more like sorbet than ice cream, which I think can definitely be a plus, especially post-pizza.

I think that food in general in Italy is different as well, to say the very least. For one thing, the grocery stores are tiny. Even the largest ones we've found don't compare to the usual American grocery stores- I wouldn't even say they're Walgreen's-sized. The variety, therefore, tends to be lacking. I have yet to see cheddar cheese (which is REALLY sad), baking powder, any sort of variety of tortilla chips or salsa...the list goes on and on. The restaurants too, of course, tend to serve solely Italian cuisine- which is great! Italian food is WONDERFUL. I just can't handle eating it every single day. Pasta overload is no fun. Nor is pizza overload- not that I've met a pizza I didn't like in Italy, of course. We finally broke down and went to the McDonald's near the Spanish Steps (which, by the way, are kind of a letdown), and it just happened to be the nicest McDonald's I've ever seen in my life. And the fries were SO wonderful. Not that they were any different from American McDonald's fries. They were just....not pasta. Yum. I guess you could say that food-wise, I'm feeling pretty homesick right now. I would kill for Chipotle. Or Chinese take-out. Or Dotty's. Ahhh. But we're doing a lot of cooking at home- we've been having chicken parmesan, chicken stirfry (at least we found the soy sauce!), and many, many turkey sandwiches. I was pleasantly surprised to find that they have Granny Smith apples here (I wasn't really expecting that, but I guess I don't really know why they wouldn't...), and of course the bread is wonderful. I just wish there was a bigger selection- and Mexican spices and cheddar cheese wouldn't hurt either! But such is the Italian culture, and we're definitely making it work for us. And improving our cooking skills along the way, eh?

We're also eating a lot of these cookies. Best thing ever. Nutella and/or peanut butter are welcome additions.


Personal habits also seem to be fairly different in Italy than in the US, I think. For one thing, personal space is a completely different (possibly non-existent) idea here. People stand close to you to talk and crowd together with no problem at all. It's definitely quite the shift from the comfortable American arm's-length personal space! I also think that smoking is a lot more accepted here than it is at home. I can't imagine people going outside to smoke with the professor during a break in the middle of a class at home. I mean, it's not like people DON'T smoke in Madison, it's just that there's more of a stigma against it, I think. It was kind of a shocker for me when my entire French class, including the professor, went out to smoke during break- and I was the only one left in the room. Interesting.


The actual physical parts of Italy are also so different. The streets in Trastevere (and in most of the streets I've been to in Rome) are still cobblestones from forever ago- which means they can get a little dicey sometimes. I'm glad I didn't bring any heels along with me; I probably would have broken an ankle already. I have a hard enough time in flats.... I took a picture of the cobblestones near the Colosseum, but keep in mind that these are so flat and well-spaced compared to the ones I traverse everyday. It's quite the experience.
All the little alleys and tiny one-way streets in Trastevere are made of these little sampietrini. And when there are sidewalks, more often than not they are too. It's just so different than the smooth roads and sidewalks at home! You kind of just have to be fearless- the cars don't look like they'll stop as they barrel through the streets, but they do. They also don't look like they'll fit in the tiny parking spots they're trying to fit into, but they definitely do that too. The roomy American parking spots just look like a waste of space when compared to the mere inches left between bumpers and adjacent mopeds.

The doors are also different....which is kind of random. Our apartment's front door, for example, has a handle on the apartment side of it. Like you would expect.


On the other side, however, there's just a bar. A big, gold bar. And a keyhole.


This lack of doorknob means that you pull the bar to shut the door. Possibly slamming it. Possibly making your neighbors hate you. And you always have to have a key to open it, which I suppose is more secure than American doorknobbed doors, but it's just kind of baffling. What do Italians have against doorknobs??

A final major difference is the lack of a dryer. Our lonely little washer takes about two hours to do a load of laundry.

 Yes. Two whole hours. Hopefully that means that it's really efficient and that our clothes are really clean, but judging from the stench of cigarettes and Febreeze still  emanating from my newly washed and dried jeans, I'm not so sure. Yikes. But the washer is what it is. At least it's there and we don't have to go elsewhere or pay to do our laundry. The dryer situation is, however, less than ideal. I mean, it just takes time and space, and sometimes I feel like we don't have either one of those! We have three maybe 1.5 x 2.5 feet drying racks for all our clothes. It doesn't always seem like enough....





Yikes! But everything gets dry...eventually. And at least it keeps the laundry from piling up!

So there you have it- a few of my observations regarding the differences between American and Italian culture. I'm sure I'll think of more- and maybe even realize some similarities that I'm currently missing. After all, I've only been here for three weeks! All in all, however, it never ceases to amaze me that I'm actually in Rome! I constantly remind myself that I'm here- and all the beautiful and incredibly old streets of Trastevere definitely help me remember.



(Note that they don't have dryers either....but we aren't allowed to hang our laundry out of the window! I feel like we're missing out on a quintessential Italian experience there...hmm...)

Next time I'll be discussing Naples! Lauren, Katherine and I took a brief day trip there last Friday and got wonderful pizza...and saw Mount Vesuvius! Pretty awesome if you ask me. Off to Paris in seven and a half hours- time to get some sleep!

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